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MOTORCYCLE STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS
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Well, it's that time of year again! Soon the snow will be falling and the
motorcycles will be tucked away for the winter
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And each spring your dealer's phone will ring off the wall with customers
who did not store the ol' bike properly and now wonder why it won't run.
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Some preparation now will ensure that you are out riding in the spring
instead of waiting in the dealer's line-up.
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Location - where are you going to put it?
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One solution may be to ask your dealer if he offers a storage program.
This is ideal because he will often prep, store, and have the bike ready to
ride when you are ready again. If you decide to store it yourself, you will
need a place that is dry and out of harm's way.
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When possible. choose a location away from windows. The ultraviolet
light can fade paint and plastic parts. Direct sunlight can raise the ambient
temperature of the storage area which will promote condensation when the
sun goes down, so cover plain glass with some sort of opaque material.
Also, cover your bike with a specially designed bike cover not a sheet or a
tarp. Why? Because a sheet absorbs moisture and hold it against metal
surfaces and then rust forms. Also, damp fabric will breed mildew and this
may attack the seat material. A tarp prevents moisture from getting in but
it also prevents it from getting out. Moisture trapped will condense on the
bike and then the rust monster is back!
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A specially designed motorcycle cover is made of a mildew resistant
material. The material is slightly porous, so it can breathe. Covers for all
Honda bikes are available from Hondaline accessories.
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Change The Oil
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Even if the oil is not due for a change, byproducts of combustion produce
acids in the oil which will harm the inner metal surfaces. Warm the
engine to its normal operating temperature, as warm oil drains much faster
and more completely.
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While you are at it, why not change the filter too? Add fresh Honda oil.
Remember to dispose of the drained oil and old filter in a responsible
manner. What to do with the old oil? Ask your dealer, he can help.
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Add Fuel Stabilizer And Drain Carbs
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Fill the tank with fresh fuel, but do not overfill. The correct level is when
the fuel just touches the bottom of the filler neck. This gives enough room
for the fuel to expand without overflowing the tank when temperature rises.
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Shut off the fuel petcock and drain the carburetors and the fuel lines. Add
Honda winterizing fuel conditioner to prevent the fuel from going stale,
and help prevent moisture accumulation. Stale fuel occurs when aromatics
(the lighter additives) evaporate leaving a thicker, sour smelling liquid. If
left long enough, it will turn into a gum, plugging the jets and passages
inside your carbs!
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Lube the cylinder(s)
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Because gasoline is an excellent solvent and the oil scraper ring has done
its job, most of the oil from the cylinder walls have been removed since
the last time the engine was run. If the cylinder wall is left unprotected for
a long period of time, it will rust and cause premature piston and ring
wear.
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Remove the spark plugs and pour a tablespoon (5 cc) of clean engine oil
into each cylinder. Be sure to switch off the fuel before you crank the
engine or else you may refill the drained carbs! Also, ground the ignition
leads to prevent sparks igniting any fuel residue. Turn the engine over
several revolutions to spread the oil around and then reinstall the plugs.
Refitting the plugs before cranking the engine could result in a hydraulic
lock if too much oil was used in the cylinder.
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Battery Storage
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The battery must be removed from the motorcycle when it is in storage.
Motorcycles often have a small current drain even when the ignition is
switched off (dark current), and a discharged battery will sulphate and no
longer be able to sustain a charge.
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A conventional battery should be checked for electrolyte level. Add
distilled water to any of the cells that are low and then charge the battery.
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Battery charging should be performed at least every two weeks using a
charger that has an output of 10% of the battery ampere hour rating. For
example if the battery has an AH rating of 12 (e.g. 12N12A-4A-1 where
the 12A is 12 amp hours), then the charge rate of that battery should not
exceed 1.2 amps. A higher charge will cause the battery to overheat.
Charge the battery away from open flame or sparks as the gas (hydrogen)
given off a battery can be explosive. Elevate the battery and keep it from
freezing. Exercise the proper caution appropriate to caustic substances.
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Service all fluids
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If the brake or clutch fluids haven't been changed in the last two years or
18,000 km (11,000 miles), do it now. The fluids used In these system are
"hygroscopic" which means that they absorb moisture. The contaminated
fluid will cause corrosion inside the systems which may give problems
when the motorcycle is used next spring. Be sure to use the correct fluids
and note the warnings and instructions in the service manual. If you don't
have the experience to service these systems, contact your dealer, he will
be happy to assist you.
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If your motorcycle is liquid cooled, the coolant requires changing every
two years or 24,000 kms (15,000 miles). Make sure that the engine is cool
enough to rest your hand on it before draining the system and please
dispose of the coolant responsibly. Honda Coolant/antifreeze is available
from your dealer and has been developed to provide the correct protection
for your Honda engine. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water will ensure a
clean system for the next two years or 24,000 kms (15,000 miles).
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Final Preparation
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Give your bike a good cleaning and dry the bike thoroughly. If your bike
is chain driven, apply a quality chain lube. Honda (of course) has
available a chain lube suitable for all types of drive chains. Spray a light
oil (such as WD40) into the muffler ends and drain holes. Give the painted
surfaces and uncoated aluminum parts a good coat of wax polish. Check
the air pressure of the tires, (the spec is usually on the chain guard or the
swing arm label).
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If the bike has a center stand use it and put a block under the engine to
raise the front wheel off the ground. If your bike has no center stand, then
the tire pressure should be set at the maximum load pressure to help
prevent flat spotting. Do not use cleaners or vinyl polishes (like Armor-All)
on the tires because they will dry the rubber compounds and cause
cracking. Now you can cover the bike with the cycle cover and look
forward to the first warm day of spring.
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Back On The Road
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Before you head out onto the highway, there are a couple of things to do.
First, remove the cover and put it where you can find it again. Talking of
finding things, locate the (charged) battery and reinstall it connecting the
positive (+) cable (red) before the (-) negative and covering the terminals with
the plastic covers. Recheck all fluid levels and turn on the fuel. Set the tire
pressures back to riding specs and you are ready to fire up.
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As you don your riding gear, remember that your riding skills will be a
little rusty and the road surfaces will have changed a bit since the last ride,
so go carefully. Sand/salt deposits on the edge of the road and especially at
corners may be hazardous. One last caution, don't lend your bike even to
your best buddy. Every spring I have to repair bikes damaged by someone
who borrowed a friend's bike. After all is said and done, have fun.
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